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I read a survey that said although economic numbers for the nation are still down - cheap restaurants, cheap wine, and antacid sales are up.  Are Tums and Rolaids on the rise because of  A. stress  B. Cheap wine  C. Cheap Food, or D.  All of the above?

Your guess is as good as mine.  But personally I think that it’s time for a little self-indulgence.  I’m tired of doom and gloom. It’s time to have a Beggars Banquet! 

People shouldn’t think in terms of scarcity all the time.  It’s boring.  So think extravagantly - at least once in awhile.  I think it does the soul good to splurge in hard times and have a nice dinner and an expensive bottle of wine.   But this is just my opinion. Proceed at your own risk.

I know in this blog I’ve encouraged people to look for good wine, at a good price- and I still do.  But sometimes it’s good to just go ahead and spend some money!!!  It will re-energize you in your efforts to carry on the struggle.

But if you just can’t bring yourself to do it - then at least buy a wine that makes you feel like you’re being indulgent.  You can still get some of the psychological benefits, but at a cheaper price.  And what better wine is there to achieve this goal than the 2006 ‘Sinner’s Punch’ by Giant Wine Co. - never heard of it?

2006 Devil's Punch

2006 Sinner's Punch

Giant Wine Co. is the joint project of the Chris Gorman Winery and the Mark Ryan Winery, in Washington State. 

Chris Gorman and Mark Ryan McNeilly are both on the cutting edge of the younger Grunge influenced Washington winemakers.  And this wine is only like $12 - $15 a bottle!  

 Sinner’s Punch is  90% Syrah and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Red Willow Vineyard in the Columbia Valley.   Before I drank the wine I was afraid that it might taste like one of those cheap Australian Wines-big syrupy and flabby- you know the kind.  But this wine had none those qualities. 

The wine has delicious layers of soft red and black fruits - but with good structure.  It has that unmistakable Washington earth quality, and also meatiness and a long and delightful finish.  The wine became more and more ’pretty’ as I drank it - you know the kind.  I took a bottle with me while I was camping in the Tetons, and  it was a perfect match with everything grilled. 

Sorry about the poor quality of the bottle picture.  I didn’t have my camera with me, so I took the pic with my phone.  I think the blurriness gives it a woodsy Gothic Sinner’s Punch  B movie horror flick look, so I used it - and I made it out of the woods alive.  But the wine is definitely an ‘A’

 

What happened to Autsralian Wine Sales?

What happened to Autsralian Wine Sales?

The Australian wine business and the Republican party are facing a similar situation- they have lost their prominence, and they desperately want to get it back.  And, like the aforementioned GOP, the huge wine corporations that gobbled up brands and marketed them relentlessly around the world -especially in the U.S - are trying to read the cards to find out just what in the heck has happened.

 The problem is that even the phrase ‘Australian Wine’, has become synonymous with the once hugely popular mono-flavored high alcoholic fruit bombs that were designed to appeal to the mass global palate. 

But now the fickle public wants something new and they are filling up their shopping carts and voting with their credit cards for the wines of Argentina, Chile and Spain.  

But is all lost for Australia?  Maybe not.  It seems that many producers, especially the smaller ones, are getting back to basics. They no longer want to be the poster child for the ‘over-the-top’ high alcoholic wines of their past. They want to express the terroir and micro-climates of their vineyards, and make wines of distinction. 

That’s not to say that Australia doesn’t have a long history of great producers - they do! In fact wineries such as Cimicky, Kaelser, Ben Glaetzer, Yalumba, Jim Barry, and Henschke, have consistently produced wines that are indeed big, but also complex, nuanced and distinctive.

So what does the future hold? It will be interesting to see how the Aussies adapt.  They certainly face a lot of Challenges -recent poor harvests, drought, and a changing market-  but they have  a lot of talented winemakers, great vineyards, and money. And these are the three drivers that make up a vibrant wine market.

Read a good article from the San Francisco Chronicle “Australian wine industry undergoes image rehab”  http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/05/08/FDSN17ERMG.DTL&type=food

Talley Vineyards 2006 Oliver's Vineyard Chardonnay

2006 Oliver's Vineyard

I picked up a bottle of Talley Vineyards 2006 Oliver’s Vineyard Chardonnay at the local wine store the other day. I have always been impressed with their wines, and for some reason I had a hankerin’ for a good  bottle of Chardonnay.  

 Oliver’s is slightly Burgundian in style, while keeping it’s Central Coast personality. 100% barrel fermented,  aged sur lie 16 months in French oak, 30% new barrels. ( Oliver’s Vineyard is on the western end of the Edna Valley in California’s Central Coast viticultural area. See previous post).

 If I’m going to drink a bottle of Chardonnay, I’m going to make sure it’s a good one. I will not drink a non-distinctive, flabby, high alcoholic, over oaked wine - what would be the sense in that?.    I will spend the extra money, or I won’t drink one at all. 

Talley wines are not cheap.  The Chardonnay runs anywhere from $30- $40 a bottle.  I know in this blog, I have often ranted about the wickedness of high wine prices ( ah but I was so much older then, I’m younger then that now).  But the truth is - I like expensive wine and high priced wines have a pivotal role to play in today’s wine world.  But alas - most expensive wines are not worthy of being part of the Pantheon of wine gods.  But they seem to think that a high price tag lifts them out of the mercantile class, and into the aristocracy. 

But I think the Talley 2006 Oliver’s Chardonnay is worth the extra money. The wine has nice tropical and citrus fruits on the nose - kiwi, lemon, and also green apple, pear and mineral.  On the palate it shows lemon, pear, stones, and a silky texture with a steely minerality.  The wine is elegant - crisp and vibrant.  The oak is seamless, flawless and delicious.

But what food do you match with an expensive Chardonnay? Out of curiosity, I looked on the web under Talley Oliver’s vineyard, and the recommendations were the usual  ‘goes well with chicken etc. etc…..’  But the truth is - this wine - and wines like it, are best consumed by themselves - with conversation by the fire, or a picnic on the grass at Corona Del Mar  overlooking the Ocean while watching the sunset over Catalina Island. 

Now, I know that I am walking on a wine drinkers holy ground here - those purists who feel that wine should always be accompanied by food - I agree with them, 98.6% of the time, but sometimes it’s nice to sip on a delicious wine, discover it’s nuances over intelligent conversation, without having to eat chicken at the same time.


The California central coast is probably one of least known viticultural regions in the State. Two coastal Valleys, the Edna Valley, and the Arroyo Grande Valley, produce some world class wines,(but unfortunately most of the wineries there do not).  In fact wine from Talley Vineyards, is on the list of the #1 rated restaurant in the world, El Bulli (see previous post).

From Los Angeles go north for a couple of hours on U.S. Hwy 101 and your there.  Take highway 227 from the City of Arroyo Grande and drive through the Edna Valley to San Luis Obispo. Visit the wineries along the way, such as Claiborne and Churchill. They make some super nice dry Rieslings, that have a cult following.  A few miles north of San Luis Obispo on Hwy 101, and you’ll reach Paso Robles. In the summertime temperatures regularly top 100 degrees.

If you want to escape the heat, take Peachy canyon Road, to Vineyard drive (look at a map first) and take the beautiful 2 lane drive through the Vineyards, and make your way to Moro Bay.There are some tasting rooms along the way, and If your lucky you’ll find Doug Beckett owner of Peachy Canyon Winery at his tasting room. Tasting with Doug is an unforgetable experience.   

It’s only a 28 mile drive from Paso Robles to the coast and Moro Bay, but the temperature can plummet by as much as 40 degrees. You can rehydrate in the cool 65 degree temperature and walk along the docks and check out the fishing boats. 

 The Arroyo Grande Valley is located in the the Southern Central Coast, and is eight miles east of the Pacific Ocean, just south of the Edna Valley and north of Santa Barbara County.  The Arroyo Grande and Edna Valley’s are unique for California - they run northeast-southwest and open directly to the Pacific Ocean, making them the coolest and most temperate viticultural areas in California. These are ideal conditions that result in a long and mild growing season, with bud break typically occurring in mid-February, flowering in early May and harvest in late Sept.

The soil in the Arroyo Grande Valley is shallow, and  composed of loam and calcareous clay. This soil type is reminiscent of the vineyards of Burgundy, particularly those located in the Côte de Nuits. The shallow soil, coupled with the steepness of the hills, facilitates drainage.

A supreme example of the quality that can come from this region are the wines from Talley Vineyards.You can find the Winery in the Arroyo Grande valley, by heading towards Lopez Lake, on Lopez Rd.

Talley vineyards has some of the most intelligently managed vineyards in California.  High quality and long-term sustainability are the two principles that guide Talley Vineyards’ farming decisions. Brian Talley and Vineyard Manager Kevin Wilkinson collaborate to constantly strive to improve fruit quality while ensuring that the techniques employed work in harmony with the natural conditions of the individual vineyard sites.

Talley Chardonnay

Talley Chardonnay

The Talley family farming tradition began in 1948, when Oliver Talley started growing specialty vegetables in the Arroyo Grande Valley. Today, second and third generation family members maintain Talley Farms’ international reputation for premium quality fruits and vegetables.

 Many of the vines in Talley’s Rincon Vineyard grow on their own roots and are low in vigor and yield small quantities of fruit with great concentration and complexity, and results in chardonnay and Pinot Noir yields averaging less than three tons per acre.

Talley Vineyards

Talley Vineyards

 

 

Biologically based farming techniques and integrated pest management practices are employed throughout the vineyards. To improve soil conditions, prevent erosion and provide fertility, cover crops are maintained in all vineyard blocks. Compost produced from a combination of the winery’s grape pomace and horse manure is another key source of fertility.

  All of these functions are performed by hand with full-time, year-round employees who are paid by the hour to ensure the highest possible quality. This is unique in California where most grape growers employ labor contractors seasonally, pay their workers on a piece-rate basis and increasingly rely on mechanized pruning and harvesting.

Talley Vineyards seeks to create wines that consistently reflect the unique character of each vineyard, the terroir, rather than changing trends in winemaking fashion. The wines are gently bottled, generally without filtration.

 The Top Ten Restaurants in the World.
El Bulli, Spain
The Fat Duck, UK
Noma, Denmark
Mugaritz, Spain
El Celler de Can Roca, Spain
Per Se, USA
Bras, France
Arzak, Spain
Pierre Gagnaire, France

The San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants list is chosen by 806 chefs, critics and industry experts. It is to the restaurant world what the Oscar’s are to the movie industry.

The number one restaurant is El Bulli and it has been described as “a gastronome’s once-before-you-die mecca”. The restaurant’s chef, Ferran Adria, leads a movement combining traditional cuisine with new techniques.

Chef Ferran Adria

Chef Ferran Adria

Chef Ferran Adria is considered by many to be the greatest chef in the world and his restaurant to be the greatest restaurant in the world.  Located in Roses, near Barcelona Spain, El Bulli is a holy mecca for food lovers.

The 35-course taster’s menu is a grand experience of tastes, textures, and wonder. An architect of molecular gastronomy.  Adrià’s creations are designed to surprise and enchant his guests.

Last year the menu included omelette surprise, melon caviar with passion fruit and mint and parmesan marshmallow. 

 There are  35 or more small intensely flavored courses.  

As mentioned in my previous post, the menu highlights the importance of focus and clarity. Every ingredient has meaning and contributes to the chef’s purpose.

Each small course is designed to overwhelm  the palate with flavor, and results in an unforgettable sensory experience.

Baby snails in court bouillon with velvet crab in escabèche and fennel-flavoured amaranth

Baby snails in court bouillon with velvet crab in escabèche and fennel-flavoured amaranth

 

 Lamb’s brains with sea urchins and sea grape

Lamb’s brains with sea urchins and sea grape

Razor-clam Sushi with Ginger Spray

Razor-clam Sushi with Ginger Spray

White Asparagus and Hot Mayonaise

White Asparagus and Hot Mayonaise

 

Consommé Tagliatelle Carbonara

Consommé Tagliatelle Carbonara

Strawberries with Campari, Mandarin, Basil, & Sancho Powder

Strawberries with Campari, Mandarin, Basil, & Sancho Powder

Bread,Oil, Chocolate

Bread,Oil, Chocolate

 

If you go, plan on making reservations months in advance. El Bulli serves only dinner, has less than 50 seats, and only makes one sitting. They are also closed from October to March. Of the approximately 2,000 bookings every year, they receive over 400,000 applications. Expect to pay about $150 per person, not including wine.

 

 

 

Free the Cluttered Brain

Free the Cluttered Brain

The book ‘Elements of Style’ by E.B. White was released for publication 50 years ago yesterday. It has become a bible for writers.  And I think its philosophy and way of viewing the world, through the use of language, can be applied in other areas of life -including wine.

 Public Radio did a feature story commemorating the book’s anniversary.

  ‘The Elements of Style’ is an exhortation to ”cut the vast tangle of English rhetoric down to size and write its rules and principles on the head of a pin…… there’s a certain Zen quality to some of [the book's rules], like, ‘Be clear, Or, ‘Omit needless words’. ”

“Muddiness is not merely a disturber of prose, it is also a destroyer of life, of hope: A death on the highway caused by a misplaced phrase in a well-intentioned letter…. think of the tragedies that are rooted in ambiguity.”

The making and tasting of wine can suffer similarly from ambiguity - by both winemaker and taster.  Some tasters need to get beyond the ‘excess verbage and clutter’ that comes from trying to emulate ’The Wine Spectators’ lifestyle and image as portrayed in its publications - or of being a ’wine connoisseur’.  Clarity requires a different style thinking.

If an artist or writer is trying to impress his audience with his creativity, knowledge, or intelligence, it  immediately becomes evident to the observer, and those very attributes actually get in the way and obscure his art, or his writing - and everyone loses.

Similarly, winemakers need to cut through trendy fluff, and let the grapes and terroir express their true and natural character.  The result should be clear and focused, and at times complex.  Clarity and complexity are not mutually exclusive. In fact in art, music or prose, complexity requires clarity.

The taster also needs to look beyond the obvious, and try to find something other than what he feels he’s ’supposed’ to find, and NOT be smitten with the ’star’ quality of the wine or of those with whom he’s drinking it with. 

From the ‘Elements of Style’: “Omit Needless Words: Vigorous writing is concise. A sentence should contain no unnecessary words…. for the same reason that a drawing should have no unnecessary lines and a machine no unnecessary parts. This requires not that the writer make all sentences short, or avoid all detail and treat subjects only in outline, but that every word tell, even to a writer who is being intentionally obscure, we can say ‘be obscure clearly’ “  I wish I could think so clearly.

A good chef knows the spices that will coax the desired flavors from the raw ingredients he is using.  If he adds too much -  the flavors become muddied and unfocused.  Every ingredient should ‘tell’.  Great winemaker’s and tasters have that same philosophy.

What wine blogger’s have been writing about for months, is finally dawning on the big wine corporations. Wine drinkers are looking for bargains. And if they can save just one dollar on a bottle of wine, they will buy down. 

According to the Sydney Morning Herold, giant wine conglomerate Constellation Brands, which bought the huge Australian wine company BRL  Hardy in 2003, reported a loss of 301 million dollars.

Australia’s harvest will be down 10 to 20%, but at the same time, grape prices are declining.  That my friends - is a seriously bad sign!

Over the years Australian wines went from good value pricing, to extremely expensive pricing . Thankfully some are adapting.  Epicurean Wines, based in Seattle, while still offering the higher-end artisan wines, has developed some tremendous value wines - wines that are not made in the over-the-top style that have become the norm for so many Aussie producers. 

 Constellation’s sales margin fell 1.9 per cent in the fourth quarter. CEO Rob Sands said that consumers had chosen to switch to less expensive wines as the effects of the global financial crisis were felt during the quarter ended February 28.  ”What happened in the fourth quarter, I think you had some pretty quick consumer and retailer reaction to the economy, and if consumers could save $US2 on a bottle of wine, they might buy lower-end products. There was probably some overreaction from distributors, retailers and consumers in the fourth quarter.”

That should not of been a surprise.

In the summer of 2008 A.C. Nielsen observed a 41 percent growth in U.S. sales for the 3L ‘Box Wine’ category.

This week the average selling prices of bottled Australian wines fell 5.4 per cent in February compared with the same period the previous year, but cask wine (box wine) prices increased 5.3 per cent.

 Are we entering the era of the Box?   As someone who remembers boxes of Franzia  ‘kool-aid like’ blush wines in the fridge at every family gathering- all I can say is - I hope not!!!

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  • "With bread and wine you can walk your road" Spanish Proverb